Alpamayo: The Dream Pyramid of the Andes
For SCARPA athlete Susi from Berghasen, Alpamayo had long been a mountain of longing. Rising 5,947 meters in the heart of Peru’s Cordillera Blanca, it is often considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world – not because of its height, but because of its perfectly shaped, snow-white pyramid.
In summer 2025, that dream became reality.
Acclimatization and Approach
The expedition began in Huaraz, where the team spent a week acclimatizing above 5,000 meters. From Cashapampa, they trekked into the Santa Cruz Valley, with donkeys carrying the main loads. Surrounded by the glaciated peaks of Quitaraju and Artesonraju, Alpamayo gradually came into view.
At 4,300 meters, they established basecamp directly below the flawless southwest face. From there, all equipment had to be carried up to the moraine camp at 4,900 meters.
High Camp and Decision
After fresh snowfall and uncertain conditions, the team faced the key question: continue or turn back? They chose to go up.
Navigating through crevasses and beneath towering seracs, they reached high camp at 5,450 meters. That evening, the clouds parted, revealing Alpamayo in full glory – a perfect pyramid glowing in the last light.
Summit Day – The French Direct
At midnight, they set off via the French Direct, a steep ice couloir reaching up to 80 degrees. The bergschrund demanded full concentration. From there, it was pitch after pitch upward.
Ice tools bit into firm Andean ice, crampon points placed precisely. At nearly 6,000 meters, the altitude and steepness were unmistakable. Under the full moon and framed by massive ice mushrooms, they climbed higher as the horizon slowly turned red with sunrise.
After eight pitches, they reached the narrow summit ridge. A few final careful steps – and Susi stood on the summit of Alpamayo with her team.
Below them stretched a sea of clouds, the Cordillera Blanca silent at their feet. No loud celebration – just a quiet, powerful moment.
Descent and Trust in Equipment
The descent followed carefully through the couloir back to high camp and onward to basecamp.
At minus 15 degrees and on 80-degree ice, every detail matters: warm feet, precise front points, and a boot that combines insulation with sensitivity. In the steep wall, Susi relied on the Phantom Tech HD – lightweight, technical, and dependable in hard Andean ice.
A Line That Stays
For Susi, Alpamayo is more than a summit. It is a striking line of ice rising into the sky – and an experience that will remain.
