Jorge Diaz Rullo | Café Colombia Project

An epic climbing project on the edge of the impossible

This story is different. It breaks away from our habits. It isn’t (yet) finished, but maybe that’s exactly why it’s worth telling.

We interviewed Jorge Díaz-Rullo, who continues to push his physical and mental limits as he attempts to complete Café Colombia in Margalef. Café Colombia is a 30-meter line of intense, extreme, and overhanging climbing—one that might be forgotten by everyone, or someday become part of sport climbing history. Or perhaps it will remain a thin line dividing the possible from the impossible. For now, it’s a story still in the making—an ongoing journey that, for the past four years, has carried all the emotions of a 26-year-old climber.

Perseverance is the key: how do you keep motivation so high? Do you have some "down" moments and how do you deal with them?

"Of course, I have many moments when my motivation is low, or rather, not at its highest, which is what I need for a project that demands so much from me in every way.
Typically, when my motivation isn't at its peak, it's because I've lost confidence in myself; I don't feel physically up to the task of this project, and I start to think I'm making more backward progress than forward. This is very hard psychologically when you're investing so much effort and time into a specific path. In these cases, I spend more time training until I feel fit, and I also try to go out and climb other things to motivate myself and, at the same time, regain that confidence which is absolutely crucial to give my best."

Are you always sure Cafe Colombia is climbable?

"No, many times I wonder if this is really possible, or at least for me. It can be very frustrating to have only one good attempt among so many falls. I need everything to be in my favor, besides being at my strongest moment and having some luck, all this just to achieve one good attempt. The absence of previous ascenders and being aware of its difficulty often generates doubts. Somehow, I seek motivation and enjoyment from this big challenge to keep moving forward."

Are you in the meantime motivated about trying some very hard projects in the world as well? (DNA for example)

"I am very eager to travel the world, and I have many lines in mind that I want to try, both sport climbs and boulders, and of course, DNA is on that list. However, at this moment, I can't stop thinking about Café Colombia. Even when I'm not trying it, my mind is still on it; I feel like my whole life revolves around this project. Most of my interim goals just seem like part of this long process that helps me improve for this. I believe I won't rest until someday I manage to send it."

When you train you have of course some downs on a performance point of view (load periods): How do you plan/schedule your training and preparation for the performance? How many "peak performances do you want to have per year?

"Honestly, I am a climber who is constantly seeking my maximum performance. At the same time, I'm aware that this is impossible, and often I can't avoid it affecting me psychologically. After many years, I'm starting to understand it, but it still takes a lot of effort to process.
With the help of my coaches, we plan the seasons and how to approach the different goals. I think this is very important for me as it helps me disconnect, not be so focused on performing at my best, and also keeps me motivated and enjoying other things. For example, now in the summer, when I may not be at 100%, I try to balance training with trying to improve my onsight climbing."

Have you improved your mental training over these almost 4 years of tries?

"I can say that I have improved a lot! I've tried to work on it consciously, sometimes even with the help of my sports psychologist. I've had to overcome many frustrations and deal with many falls; all this has transformed into experience, and without a doubt, I feel like a completely different climber than I was years ago."

Personal project or "teamwork". What are the pros and cons and what do you recommend to the climbers of our community? Have you ever thought about opening the project to other top climbers and trying the route together?

"I've always thought that sharing is key in sports. There comes a point where one's own learning is limited; listening to and learning from others in any field will always help you improve as a climber. Imagine that you gather something good from each person; you will always find aspects in which to improve.
Café Colombia is an open project. I've always tried to encourage everyone to come and try it with me; in fact, some of the best climbers in the world have done so, but none have felt motivated… and this, while making me more aware of its difficulty, also saddens me. I would love to share this whole process with someone; it would be much more enjoyable. I know that sometimes this project is even harder because I find myself alone trying it."

Good luck, Jorge! Thank you for sharing not only the greatness of your dream, but also its doubts and uncertainties. We're cheering for you!